Many gardeners are inclined to look rather askance at the miniature roses and regard them as some kind of modern freak. How such an opinion equates with accepting climbing 30ft (9m) monsters I'm not sure, and it is very unfair because many people with insufficient space for conventional bushes who only have small gardens, patios, terrace pots and tubs, are thereby enabled to grow and enjoy roses.
You will probably have enough stems to make three or more loops between each pair. Arrange these at different heights about lft (0.3m) apart, and as the stems grow on keep them tied down to maintain a level height. Of course, if you have a fence to tie to so much the easier, or you can run some wire along rather like fruit training wires, but this is not essential. The effect of the bending down will be to induce the plant to fight back and produce bloom, and as side shoots form, these should be bent back and looped under in the same way. Very soon your hedge will be thick and quite impassable.
Roses do not like root disturbance, and while it may be possible during the dormant season to turn out and replant a miniature rose in a small container, you are hardly likely to be able to do this with a container of this size. The gradual build-up of nutrient and trace element deficiency therefore is a distinct possibility. This is a very big argument in favour of using an organic source like Humber and, because it is practical on a soil surface area of this dimension, maintaining a mulch cover.
Perhaps the most frequent cause of trouble with all pot and container grown plants is that it is not generally realized that, as soon as a root ball becomes dry, it thinks it has become a duck's back, and water poured on from the top runs off in just the same way, down the sides and out through the drainage holes, leaving the soil and roots as dry as ever.
Every single piece has to go on the fire. Clear out fallen leaf with the rake, and burn the lot. Finally, bear in mind that this hedge could become an ideal over-wintering rest home for aphids and all the other pests of the rose.
Size, however, is one of the problems here, and there is something to be said therefore for allowing this plant to divert some of its energy into producing a hip display for the autumn and winter.
You will probably have enough stems to make three or more loops between each pair. Arrange these at different heights about lft (0.3m) apart, and as the stems grow on keep them tied down to maintain a level height. Of course, if you have a fence to tie to so much the easier, or you can run some wire along rather like fruit training wires, but this is not essential. The effect of the bending down will be to induce the plant to fight back and produce bloom, and as side shoots form, these should be bent back and looped under in the same way. Very soon your hedge will be thick and quite impassable.
Roses do not like root disturbance, and while it may be possible during the dormant season to turn out and replant a miniature rose in a small container, you are hardly likely to be able to do this with a container of this size. The gradual build-up of nutrient and trace element deficiency therefore is a distinct possibility. This is a very big argument in favour of using an organic source like Humber and, because it is practical on a soil surface area of this dimension, maintaining a mulch cover.
Perhaps the most frequent cause of trouble with all pot and container grown plants is that it is not generally realized that, as soon as a root ball becomes dry, it thinks it has become a duck's back, and water poured on from the top runs off in just the same way, down the sides and out through the drainage holes, leaving the soil and roots as dry as ever.
Every single piece has to go on the fire. Clear out fallen leaf with the rake, and burn the lot. Finally, bear in mind that this hedge could become an ideal over-wintering rest home for aphids and all the other pests of the rose.
Size, however, is one of the problems here, and there is something to be said therefore for allowing this plant to divert some of its energy into producing a hip display for the autumn and winter.
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