Pests and Diseases of Blackcurrants

Friday, February 27, 2009 ·

By David Uriah

Get the bushes planted as early as possible, preferably in November or early December. Always plant two-year-olds, if possible. After the second year the pruner aims to remove two or three branches each winter, with the idea of encouraging the production of new wood.

The blackcurrant bears on the young wood produced the previous season. Thus, when the bushes are seven or eight years of age and onwards, the aim is to remove a third of the branches, tackling those that are dropping on the ground first, so as to keep the bushes as upright as possible.

Fortunately with black currants it doesn't matter at all about cutting to just above a bud, for there seem to be pin buds which will break out into good growth on almost any part of the old wood. By the way-don't ever summer prune blackcurrants.

It is better not to cultivate in between blackcurrant bushes. I had tried grassing down in contrast to strawing. The disadvantage of this system is that the grass has to be cut fourteen or fifteen times during the summer and autumn and this makes extra work.

If the stems of the blackcurrant bushes suddenly wilt, the blackcurrant shoot moth caterpillar must be suspected. A tunnel will be found in the centre of the shoot made by a small caterpillar. The only way to get rid of this pest is to cut all the branches down to within an inch of ground level, in the spring, and so to sacrifice the crop for one year.

These insects hate having to fly from bush to bush when they are planted at distances of 5 to 6 feet, and, in fact, they will not do so in windy weather. The `hedge' method, therefore, encourages better fertilization and thus heavier yields.

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